INTRODUCTION

HONG KONG, despite the Asian economic downturn, remains one of the world�s busiest international business centers. The level of activity that courses through the city�s streets and alleyways has to be experienced to be believed. Every square inch of available land is packed with residences and places of commerce. Despite its Western trappings, it remains a panoply of exotic traditions, dialects and cuisines.Note: Many hotels and restaurants have responded to the decline in business travel to Hong Kong by dropping their prices or offering special promotions. As a result, travelers can now find some good bargains in this traditionally pricey city.

Where to Stay

Given the recent drop in tourism, many hotels are offering reduced rates. Some of the splendid luxury hotels that used to be outside the budget of many travelers have now become more affordable. When calling a hotel, ask about special discounts and promotions. But even with the latest price reductions, midrange and budget hotels are few and far between. You�re advised to book well ahead if you plan to attend one of the larger exhibitions or conventions.

Below is a sampling of hotels recommended by our correspondents; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a single room: $ = HK$800-$1,200; $$ = HK$1,200-$1,800; $$$ = HK$1,800-$2,400; and $$$$ = more than HK$2,400. However, the price codes indicated may not accurately reflect the current variability of room rates.

AT OR NEAR THE AIRPORT/LANTAU ISLAND

The New Regal Airport Hotel�This new addition to the Regal Hotels International chain is scheduled to open January 1999. Connected to the Chek Lap Kok airport, the hotel has a business center, health club facilities (including sauna and indoor and outdoor pool), three restaurants, three lounges, and rooms that accommodate people with disabilities. $$$-$$$$. 9 Cheong Tat Rd., Chek Lap, phone 2837-1788, fax 2577-5230.

TSIM SHA TSUI AREA

Peninsula Hotel�Neoclassical-style hotel built in 1928, close to the Star Ferry. One of the famed grand hotels of the world, the Peninsula is known for excellence, attention to detail, elegance and comfort. There�s a newer tower section, along with a business center packed with high-tech amenities. Swimming pool, spa, fitness center, heli-pad and Philippe Starck-designed rooftop restaurant. Butler services and chauffeur-driven Rolls Royces available. Even if you�re not a guest, stop by their renowned lobby for afternoon tea. And the glass-walled men�s bathroom in the Felix restaurant offers the best view of Hong Kong from a toilet. Largest meeting room holds 120. $$$$. Salisbury Road, phone 2366-6251, fax 2711-4170.

Miramar Hotel�Close to Kowloon Park, the Space Museum and Star Ferry. Meticulously maintained, tastefully decorated, with a grand lobby, indoor pool, gym, sauna, massage, whirlpool and Jacuzzi, business center, shopping arcade, Chinese and French restaurants. A well-equipped convention complex includes a large hall holding 1,000 that may be divided. $$$$. 130 Nathan Rd., phone 2368-1111, fax 2369-1788.

YMCA of Hong Kong�Right next to the Peninsula Hotel, but with prices a world apart. This is perhaps the nicest Y in the world. Rooms with harbor views, car rental, bookshop, gift shop, health club, two swimming pools, close to Hong Kong Science Museum, Museum of Art and Star Ferry. One meeting room accommodates 300, smaller rooms hold 100. $. 41 Salisbury Rd., phone 2369-2211.

Hyatt Regency Hong Kong�Located on Nathan Road in the heart of �the Golden Mile,� the Hyatt incorporates 723 rooms, nine meeting rooms and a business center. It�s been a long-time favorite of both business and leisure travelers. Elegant interiors and furnishings in teak, marble and rattan easily make up for the lack of harbor views. The Chinese Restaurant is renowned for its high-quality Cantonese cuisine; Hugo�s serves Continental dishes. $$-$$$. 67 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, phone 2311-1234, fax 2739-8701.

Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers�A 15-minute ride from Kai Tai Airport and a short walk from the Star Ferry brings you to this sophisticated Sheraton, with its glass exterior elevators, glittering lobby and six floors of shops and restaurants. A Japanese department store adjoins. You may choose to eat in restaurants with Japanese, Cantonese, Indian or Western menus and decor. Health club, rooftop pool, business center, ballroom. $$-$$$. 20 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, phone 2369-1111, fax 2739-8707.

The Regent Hong Kong�Renowned for luxury and service, the Regent is located right on the waterfront promenade, assuring most of its guests panoramic harbor views. White Carrara marble staircase, signature lounge, marble baths, priceless Asian art, lovely outdoor pool. Rooms are PC- and fax-ready. Designer boutiques fill the lower-level shopping mall; restaurants include Plume (exquisite French fare), The Steakhouse and Yu (fresh seafood). $$$$. 18 Salisbury Rd., Kowloon, phone 2721-1211, fax 2739-4546.

HONG KONG ISLAND

Mandarin Oriental Hotel�One of the world�s great hotels, the Mandarin prides itself on providing excellent personal attention�some guests have returned the second time to find a cherished item from their last visit (a favorite food or newspaper, for instance) ready and waiting for them. Central location. Many amenities, including an opulent lobby, shopping arcade, indoor Roman pool, restaurants and bars and business center. Banquet room holds 300, 11 smaller rooms available for meetings. Breakfast is included in the room rate. Afternoon tea in the Clipper Lounge is justly popular, with delicious scones, finger sandwiches and petit fours. $$$-$$$$. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, phone 2522-0111, fax 2810-6190.

Excelsior Hotel�Linked to the World Trade Centre by covered bridge, located in a main shopping area and easily in range of Central by taxi or underground. A very comfortable hotel with harbor views from many rooms. Most areas are accessible to wheelchairs; four wheelchair-guest rooms have roll-in showers, hard-surface carpet and easy-to-reach air-conditioning controls. Bars and restaurants, business center, indoor tennis courts, sauna. Try the Dickens Bar�s curry lunch buffet. The rooftop TOTTS offers dancing and live music till 1 am. Camino (the Italian restaurant), the Excelsior Grill and the Chinese restaurant Yee Tung Kee are all highly regarded. Conference facilities for 350. $$$. 281 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, phone 2894-8888, fax 2895-6459.

Conrad International�A 10-minute walk from the Central Business District, the Conrad provides an excellent health club, swimming pool, restaurants and bars, as well as meeting facilities for 550. Breakfast is included. $$$-$$$$. 88 Queensway, Central, phone 2521-3838, fax 521-3888.

New World Harbour View Hotel�Linked with the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, this hotel is popular with both tourists and businesspeople. Excellent facilities include jogging track, tennis courts, health club, business center, flower shop, outdoor swimming pool, Chinese and Western restaurants. $$$$. 1 Harbour Rd., phone 2802-8888, fax 2802-8833.

Harbour View International House�Part of the YMCA group, modest in price, simple in style, but quite comfortable. Coffee shop and restaurant serving Western cuisine. Ask for a harbor view room, which will provide a windowful of spectacular lights at night. In Wanchai, near good shopping areas, across from the Convention Centre and within easy reach of Central, Causeway Bay and (by underground) Kowloon. No conference facilities. $-$$. 4 Harbour Rd., phone 2802-0111, fax 2802-9063.

Grand Hyatt Hotel�A harborfront setting, direct access to the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and a reputation for superb service�all combine to make this one of Hong Kong�s premier hotels. Excellent fitness facilities and restaurants. Grissini, the Italian restaurant, is one of Hong Kong�s most popular, while the nightclub, JJ�s, packs them in. $$$-$$$$. 1 Harbour Rd., phone 2588-1234, fax 2802-0677.

NEAR ATTRACTIONS

Cheung Chau Warwick Hotel�A unique getaway: Cheung Chau is a small island an hour away from Hong Kong by ferry. Huge fishing junks jostle in the harbor, and the village�where no cars are allowed in the narrow streets�is Mediterranean in look and ambience. The Warwick is the only large hotel. Be prepared to carry your luggage from the ferry, a 15-minute walk through a maze of small shops. Ask for an ocean-facing room, from whose balcony you can see Hong Kong. $-$$. A single meeting room will hold 50. East Bay, phone 2981-0081, fax 2981-9174.

Restaurants

Family celebrations, social occasions and business meetings all revolve around food, usually at restaurants. There are more than 8,000 restaurants in Kowloon and Hong Kong Island alone. Cantonese cuisine dominates, but Hong Kong also boasts myriad restaurants serving regional Chinese cuisines, from Peking to Shanghai to Yunnan to Sichuan. Other Asian cuisines�such as Thai, Indonesian, Malay and Japanese�also abound.

Dim sum is a must for any visit to Hong Kong; many Chinese restaurants serve this a la carte style at lunch. In older restaurants, the wait staff pushes small trolleys around the room, carrying different dishes in bamboo steamer baskets or on plates. Look inside the baskets, point to what you want; the waiter will add a stamp to your bill. The traditional trolleys are slowly disappearing, however. Many restaurants now have English-menu request forms where you simply circle the dishes you want. Dim sum generally costs between HK$20-$50 per basket. Favorite dim sum choices are siu mai (small balls of pork, wrapped in a small cabbage leaf), ha gow (small dumplings with steamed prawns inside) and cha siu bao (steamed barbecued pork buns). Try the daan tart (small custard-filled pastry) for dessert. If you see �coconut cake,� it�s not angel food cake with coconut frosting but rather a delicious, creamy pudding, usually served in small blocks that look like tofu. Dim sum restaurants tend to get rather crowded, especially on Sundays. You cannot usually make reservations, so get there early and be prepared to wait.

For the following restaurants, expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one excluding drinks, tax and tip: $ = less than HK$200; $$ = HK$200-$400; $$$ = HK$400-$600; and $$$$ = more than HK$600. A 10% service charge will be added to your bill.

BEST IN TOWN

Gaddi�s�On the first floor of the Peninsula Hotel, this French restaurant is known for its superb wines and food. Popular dishes include grilled Dover sole and Scottish rack of lamb. Exquisite setting and live music by a small combo. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. $$$-$$$$ ($$ for set-price lunches). Most major credit cards. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2315-3171.

The Mandarin Grill�An elegant setting for business meals or for quiet romantic dinners. Known for its beef rib provencal. Daily 7-11 am, noon-3 pm and 6:30-11 pm. $$$-$$$$. Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, phone 2522-0111.

Petrus�On the 56th floor of the Island Shangri-La Hotel, Petrus boasts superb French cuisine and a lavish wine list. The emphasis is on quality of service, food and ambience. Try the rack of lamb or pigeon salad. Open daily noon-2:30 pm and 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$. 56/F Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, phone 2877-3838.

HOT AND TRENDY

Hong Kong has a new area of trendy bars, cafes and restaurants known as SoHo. Like the New York City neighborhood, its name is derived from its location�in this case, South of Hollywood Road. A five-minute ride from Queen�s Road Central on the Mid-Levels escalator delivers you to the hub of the action on Staunton Street. Other restaurants are spread along the surrounding streets. Here are three worth trying:

Staunton�s Bar and Cafe�This restaurant is ideal for people watching. The ground floor has high ceilings and windows, so you can check out the talent as you sip a cappuccino or savor a sundowner. Italian food is served upstairs�with some vegetarian-friendly selections such as a vegetable platter with marinated vegetables, hummus, olives, Italian cheese and grilled bread. Daily 8 am-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, phone 2973-6611.

Bayou Restaurant and Bar�This is the sort of place to see and be seen, and the multiple mirrors make sure you won�t miss a thing. The menu is New-Orleans style Cajun and Creole. The shrimp creole and the jambalaya are delicious. Daily 12:30-2:30 pm and 6:30-10:30 pm. Open 8 am for Sunday breakfast. $$. Most major credit cards. 9-13 Shelly St., Central, phone 2526-2118.

Two Sardines�For French cuisine, this is a nice informal spot with a friendly atmosphere. The sardines are a tasty starter, as is the goat-cheese salad. For the main course, try the grilled salmon or the rack of lamb. Daily noon-2:30 pm, 6-11:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 43 Elgin St., Central, phone 2973-6618.

Three other restaurants (not in SoHo) that have recently grabbed the limelight are these:

Vong�With the increasing popularity of fusion cuisine, Vong has earned an excellent reputation for its Franco-Thai offerings. The decor is purely European, but the menu is East-meets-West, with such specialties as rice-wine marinated quail and spiny lobster with Thai herbs. Daily noon-3 pm, 6 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. 25th Floor, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Rd., Central, phone 2825-4028.

El Pomposo�Tapas have taken off in Hong Kong, and this is the place to get them. Some tempting ones are prawns with white wine, almonds and grapes or smoked tortillas. Also a wide selection of wines. Tapas cost about HK$45 each. $$. Most major credit cards. 4 Tun Wo Lane, Central, phone 2869-7679.

Beirut�Traditional Lebanese food in a relaxing atmosphere with excellent service. Appetizers include hummus and babaganoush. The sharwarma, for a main dish, is delicious. Daily noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: 27 D�Aguilar St., Lan Kwai Fong, Central, phone 2804-6611; and Ground Floor, 48-50 Lockhart Rd., Wanchai, phone 2865-7271.

LOCAL FAVORITES

Landau�s/Jimmy�s Kitchen�This rather old-fashioned, long-established restaurant group caters to the expatriate and local crowd looking for quality Western food and no surprises. The menu is huge, with dishes ranging from macaroni and cheese to garoupa shashlik and Wiener schnitzel. Try the fresh strawberries in a biscuit-basket with strawberry sauce and fresh cream. Open daily noon-3 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Landau�s, Sun Hun Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Rd., Wanchai, phone 2827-7901. Jimmy�s Kitchen (on Hong Kong side), 1 Wyndham St., Central, phone 2526-5293. Jimmy�s Kitchen (on Kowloon side), 29 Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2376-0327.

Pine and Bamboo�Delicious Peking food served in decidedly bland surroundings that let you concentrate on your plate. Bean curd in pepper sauce, Peking duck (which need not be ordered ahead) and fried dumplings are all great. Open daily 11 am-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 30 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, phone 2577-4914.

Luk Yu Tea House & Restaurant�Fans, spittoons and surly waiters add to the experience of this 60-year-old restaurant. Cantonese cuisine throughout the day to 10 pm. Dim sum served daily 7 am-6 pm. $$-$$$. 26 Stanley St., Central, phone 2523-5464.

Dim Sum�Its retro-style deco and creative chefs have generated a huge following. Along with dim sum dishes (served, atypically, at lunch and dinner), the menu includes soups, noodle and rice dishes. Make reservations to avoid disappointment (no reservations on weekends; come early). Open daily 11 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. 63 Shing Woo Rd., Happy Valley, phone 2834-8893.

Yung Kee�Marinated roast goose has been Yung Kee�s specialty since 1942. Also barbecue pork, dim sum at lunchtime and a range of Chinese dishes. Four floors can seat 1,000 guests. Daily 11 am-11:30 pm. $-$$. 32-40 Wellington St., Central, phone 2522-1624.

FRENCH/ITALIAN

Au Trou Normande�Very intimate atmosphere. This long-established restaurant is known for its extensive wine list and French cuisine. Favorites are escargots, grilled whole trout, spinach mousse and lamb with mushrooms. Lunch special of soup and salad buffet, choice of 8 to 10 entrees, dessert and coffee or tea can�t be beat at HK$110. Daily noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 6 Carnarvon Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2366-8754.

Stanley�s French�A wonderful French restaurant away from the busy city streets. If the weather is mild, ask for a table on the balcony. The lamb loin with potato gratin is very tasty. Wide selection of French wines. Daily noon-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 90 Stanley Main St., Stanley, phone 2813-8873.

Papillon�Quiet and understated, Papillon is tucked away on a small side street near Lan Kwai Fong. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm, Saturday 7-11 pm. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 2nd Floor, 8-13 Wo On Lane, Central, phone 2526-5965.

Grappa�s�Ignore the mall surroundings: The Italian food is wonderful, and service is courteous and friendly. Great pastas and salads, delicious soups and desserts. Open daily 9:30 am-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 132 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway (between Central and Wan Chai), phone 2868-0086.

Tutto Meglio�Ideal for a business lunch or dinner, this restaurant serves Florentine-inspired cuisine such as truffled porcini mushrooms, chicken and sausage stew, and pumpkin ravioli. Open Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 33 D�Aguilar St., Lan Kwai Fong, Central, phone 2869-7833.

Va Bene�Consistently excellent Northern Italian food: Fried stuffed eggplant, pasta with porcini mushrooms and risotto are particular favorites. Open daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm (Saturday and Sunday to 11 pm). Reservations essential. $$$. Most major credit cards. 58-62 D�Aguilar St., Lan Kwai Fong, Central, phone 2845-5577.

Ristorante Il Mercato�Decent Italian food that won�t break the bank. A quiet setting makes it ideal for either business lunches or a romantic meal. Pastas, pizzas and more. Be sure to try the spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams) and mozzarella di bufala (mozzarella cheese with tomatoes and olive oil). Daily 11 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: Shop C&D, 126 Stanley Main St., Stanley, phone 2813-9090, and Basement, 34-36 D�Aguilar St., Central, phone 2868-3068.

Trattoria�Good service, great food�a solid choice. Risottos, pastas and meat dishes, along with a mouthwatering dessert table. Afternoon tea (after lunch). Open daily 11:30 am-midnight. Landmark, 15 Queen�s Rd., Central, phone 2524-0111.

ASIAN

Java�Tiny Indonesian restaurant that specializes, obviously, in rijsttafel: a 16-dish extravaganza for just HK$150. Open daily noon-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Ground Floor, Han Hing Mansion, 38 Hankow Rd., Kowloon, phone 2367-1230.

Indochine 1929�Superb Vietnamese cuisine served in a context evocative of 1920�s Vietnam. These are favorites: deep-fried softshell crabs, cha ca (Hanoi-style fried fish) and fresh spring rolls. $$$. 2nd Floor, California Tower, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, phone 2869-7399.

The Ashoka Restaurant�Indian dishes in an elegant setting. Thali, the specialty, is a platter of all kinds of curries, vegetables, samosas, naan and a very sweet dessert. Order vegetarian or nonvegetarian thalis. Go for Sunday lunch�most Indian restaurants are very quiet then. Bar and Western wines. Daily noon-2:30 pm, 6-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: 57 Wyndham St., Central, phone 2524-9623, and Shop 1, Connaught Commercial Building, 185 Wanchai Rd., Wanchai, phone 2891-8981.

Chili Club�An old favorite for Thai food. Good red and green curries (duck, fish, beef), chili beef salad, tom yung koon soup and various seasonal dishes. Daily noon-3 pm and 6-10:30 pm. Reservations are helpful if you�re hungry and don�t want to wait. $$. Most major credit cards. 1st Floor, 88 Lockhart Rd., phone 2527-2872.

BREAKFAST

Clipper Lounge�The ever-popular Clipper Lounge focuses on a healthy start for the day, with free-range eggs, muesli and other cereals, yogurts, cheeses, breads and a luscious array of fresh fruits. 7:30-10 am. HK$190 for the buffet. Mezzanine, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Central, phone 2522-0111.

The Peninsula�Breakfast in the famed lobby is a welcome alternative to the mania for afternoon tea (which is almost too popular). The peaceful atmosphere is complemented by excellent service and superb food. 7-11 am. $$-$$$. The Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2366-6251.

Superstar Seafood Restaurant�In Superstar�s Tsim Sha Tsui branch, dim sum is served 7 am-2:30 pm, affording a chance to experience an old-style Chinese breakfast. (Grilled fresh fish, steamed crab and a variety of seafood dishes are featured in the evening.) Daily 7 am-5 pm. 1/F, Tsimshatsui Mansion, 83-97 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2366-0878.

Dan Ryan�s Chicago Grill�Ideal for those craving an American start to the day. Dan serves brunch on weekends and holidays (otherwise, his day starts with lunch). Breakfast can be bacon and eggs, sausages, pancakes or French toast�and the portions are enormous. The frying begins at 10 am. $. Two locations: 114 Pacific Place, Queensway, phone 2845-4600, and Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2735-6111.

Post 97�Located in the trendy bar area of Lan Kwai Fong, Post 97 serves breakfast all day, beginning at 8 am. The breakfast menu runs 24 hours on Saturday for partyers. Relax or recover with a newspaper and the Grill Up or eggs Benedict. Monday-Thursday 8 am-1 am, Friday 8 am-4 am, Saturday opens 8 am and doesn�t close until Sunday 2 am. $$. Upper Ground, 9-11 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, phone 2810-9333.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

The Noodle Box�This trendy noodle bar, outfitted in glass and stainless steel, is frequented by many Westerners. Wide array of noodle dishes, the most popular being Tom Yum Noodle Soup. Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $-$$. Ground Floor, 30-32 Wyndham St., Central, phone 2536-0571.

The Gallery Pub and Restaurant�If you�re heading out to Lantau Island for a day trip (to visit to the Big Buddha at the Po Lin Monastery) or for a run to the airport, stop by the Gallery for a traditional South African meal. The atmosphere is seriously relaxed and the dress code is equally casual. The main menu includes such South African stalwarts as ostrich fillet and pap en wors (sausage). Barbecues are held on Sunday. You can sit on the balcony and watch your food cooked on the open braai (barbecue) Wednesday-Friday 6-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon-10 pm. $$. Credit cards not accepted. Tong Fuk Village, S. Lantau Road, Lantau Island, phone 2980-2582.

Lamma Island�Lamma, a beautiful island, is spectacular at night. Many people take private boats to the island and then stop off for a fabulous seafood dinner. You can also take the ferry over, but be aware that it stops running at 10 pm. Specialties vary from restaurant to restaurant, but some of the great dishes are garlic king prawns, deep-fried squid, garoupa (a local fish) and scallops. Here are a few stars on the Lamma Island scene:

The Lamma Mandarin Seafood Restaurant�Daily 10 am-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ground Floor, 81st St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, phone 2982-8128.

Rainbow Seafood Restaurant�Daily 10 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ground Floor, 17 1st St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, phone 2982-8100.

Floating Restaurants�It�s possible to hire a boatman-chef to take you into a harbor for a meal cooked onboard and served by lamplight. The village of Aberdeen is where most of these entrepreneurs operate. If negotiating with a freelancer for this experience sounds like too much hassle, you can take a short cruise in a sampan from Aberdeen to larger, anchored establishments (such as the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, the biggest restaurant-boat in Southeast Asia). These bigger boats offer a full Chinese menu (some include Peking duck). However, unlike the experience on the small boats, the bigger boats are anything but intimate: With few exceptions, be prepared for merely adequate food, surly service and a bill written in Chinese. Aberdeen Harbour is on the south side of Hong Kong Island.

Petticoat Lane�One of Hong Kong�s first openly gay- and lesbian-friendly bars and restaurants. It�s equally welcoming to straights. Located in a tiny house down a small lane (just above where the escalator crosses Lyndhurst Terrace) and decorated in ornate baroque style, it offers two- and three-course set lunches, happy hour and snacks in the evening. Outdoor seating is a rare pleasure. Open Sunday-Wednesday noon-2:30 pm, Thursday-Saturday noon-2:30 am. Most major credit cards. 2 Tun Wo Lane, Central, phone 2973-0642.

Chungking Mansions�Dining for the adventurous only. Chungking Mansions are a Hong Kong phenomenon: On the bottom floors are dozens of shops with every imaginable knickknack available, as well as a few shops serving Indian and Chinese fast food. Look at the directories near any of the elevators and you�ll see occasional listings with the appendage �Club and Mess.� These are small, family-run Indian or Pakistani restaurants, and eating in them has, for us, always been a delicious but surreal experience. On our first visit, we were invited to sit with a group of Indian nationals who, through the entire meal, stared at a Hindi movie playing on a small TV. The next visit was to a Pakistani restaurant where the first order of business was to send off for someone who spoke English. After our order was taken, we observed a small child hurry out and return 10 minutes later with some groceries. The child went out again and returned with an older woman, and only then did we hear any noise come out of the kitchen. It took some time, but the food was wonderful.

Note: You may want to inspect several of the �Club and Mess� before you find one whose sanitation standards are visibly similar to yours. Chungking Mansions are on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Sightseeing

Part of the fun of sightseeing in Hong Kong is just getting to the sights: The sounds, fragrances, crowds, excitement�everything leaves vivid impressions.

LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES

The Legislative Council Building in Central was once the Supreme Court. Built in 1903, it�s one of the few old �colonial� buildings left. In Statue Square (Chater Road).

Government House was the official residence of the governor of Hong Kong under British rule. The tower was added during the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong in World War II. The Chief Executive of the SAR (Special Administrative Region) has elected not to live in the building; its future use has yet to be determined, although discussions revolve around its becoming a museum or gallery. Central, on Upper Albert Road, opposite the Botanic Gardens.

St. John�s Cathedral is a handsome building, the oldest Anglican church in East Asia (constructed 1849). On Garden Road, Central.

The Clock Tower, standing rather isolated near the Star Ferry on the Kowloon side, used to be part of the old railway station. The Heritage Society in Hong Kong put up a brave fight to save it as one of the few original landmarks of Tsim Sha Tsui. Kowloon, near the Star Ferry Terminal.

Temple of 10,000 Buddhas requires that you be able to climb 431 steps, but the reward is not merely 10,000, but 12,800 statues of Buddha. A mummified holy man embalmed in gold leaf is also on display inside. Open 8 am-6:30 pm. Donation requested. Above Shatin railway station (go by Kowloon Canton Railway).

The Big Buddha at the Po Lin Monastery is the world�s largest outdoor seated Buddha. It was built by the Chinese Space Agency and opened officially in 1989. Work up an appetite by climbing the stairs to the top of the Buddha and then have a vegetarian lunch at the monastery. To get there, take the ferry from Central to Mui Wo and then pick up Bus 2 to the monastery. Lantau Island.

Kat Hing Wai, also known as Kam Tin Walled Village, is the original 10th-century homestead of the Tang clan, the first of the Cantonese �Five Great Clans� to migrate to the New Territories from China. The village may be modern inside, but it�s still surrounded by a moat and walls with four corner guardhouse towers. Contributions to the donations box are expected, as are handouts to the costumed Hakka women before camera shutters can be pressed. (Begin bidding at HK$10 and hope for the best.) You can reach the village by taking the MTR to Tsuen Wan Station, then Bus 51 (HK$4.80) to Kam Tin.

MUSEUMS

Hong Kong Science Museum. Hands-on exhibits that will interest adults as well as children. The Space Museum houses several exhibition halls and a planetarium, which has about seven shows a day (offered in English or with English translations). Tuesday-Thursday and Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday and public holidays 1-8 pm (closed Friday). HK$20 adults, HK$5 seniors and children. Extra charge for some special exhibits. 2 Science Museum Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, phone 2724-9000.

Hong Kong Museum of History. A historical overview of the city, focusing on pirates, wars, economic growth and hardships. Also an excellent collection of local photographs from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday and public holidays 1-6 pm. HK$10 adults, HK$5 seniors and children. Kowloon Park, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2367-1124.

Hong Kong Museum of Art contains more than 2,000 Chinese antiques. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday and public holidays 1-6 pm. HK$10 adults, HK$5 children and students. Located in the Hong Kong Cultural Complex, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167.

University Museum and Art Gallery. Large collection of bronzeware from the Yuan Dynasty as well as artifacts from the Warring States Period and Indian Buddhist sculpture. Frequent special exhibits. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. Free. University of Hong Kong, Bonham Road, phone 2859-2114.

Flagstaff House, Museum of Tea Ware. Dr. K. S. Lo donated the permanent collection of Chinese tea-drinking ware housed in this magnificent old mansion. Even if the tea ware is not of particular interest to you, Flagstaff House is well worth a visit to see some of Hong Kong�s remaining 19th-century architecture. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Free. Hong Kong Park, Central, phone 2869-0690.

Tsui Museum of Art. Rotating exhibitions drawn from its collection of more than 3,000 Chinese antiquities, predominantly Chinese ceramics. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm. HK$30 adults, HK$15 children and students. 4th Floor, Henley Building, 5 Queen�s Rd., Central, phone 2868-2688.

Hong Kong Arts Centre Pao Galleries. Showcase for contemporary art, with major international and local exhibitions of paintings, photography, crafts and design staged regularly. Daily 10 am-8 pm. Free. 2 Harbour Rd., Wanchai, phone 2582-0200.

Lei Cheng Uk Branch Museum is the Han Dynasty tomb dating back some 2,000 years, the oldest historical monument in Hong Kong. Also a Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220) exhibition of dress. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm, Sunday and public holidays 1-6 pm. Free. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, phone 2386-2863.

PARKS, GARDENS AND ZOOS

There are not many public parks on Hong Kong Island. Land is valuable and high-rise buildings dominate everything. However, try taking a stroll through Hong Kong Park, above Central. You�ll find a magnificent aviary, a children�s playground, waterfalls and a small amphitheater.

Tiger Balm Gardens. There�s a surreal ambience to this place. It�s a collection of statues and models and a pagoda, showing mostly scenes from Chinese mythology (some quite gruesome). 10 am-4 pm. Free. Located off Tai Hang Road near Causeway Bay.

The Ngong Ping Tea Gardens. Located above Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, this is Hong Kong�s only tea plantation. It�s on top of a mountain with only one road up and down. It offers horseback riding, barbecue pits and a roller-skating rink. The ferry for Lantau Island leaves from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier, west of the Star Ferry terminal in Central. On the island, directions to the Tea Gardens are available at the ferry pier.

The Zoological and Botanical Gardens are above Central, about a 10-minute walk west of Hong Kong Park. A walk around the Botanical Gardens is a welcome change from the noise and crowding of Central, but animal lovers won�t be impressed by the zoo. The animals are not well kept. Open daily 7 am-10 pm. Free admission. Albany Road, phone 2530-0154.

AQUARIUMS AND PLANETARIUMS

The Shark Aquarium, in Ocean Park, gives you close-up views of more than 250 sharks and rays, from more than 30 species. It�s free with admission to Ocean Park. Ocean Park is open daily 10 am-6 pm. HK$140 adults (includes admission for one child under age 12). Older children pay adult price. On the south side of Hong Kong Island, near Aberdeen. Ocean Park Road, phone 2873-8888.

The Space Museum is the massive white dome in Tsim Sha Tsui, a short walk from the Star Ferry. It�s in three parts: planetarium, Exhibition Hall and Hall of Solar Sciences. Short films run in the theater. (Films are mostly in Cantonese, so look for the headphones with English translations.) Tuesday-Friday 1-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday and holidays 10 am-9 pm. Exhibition Hall admission prices are HK$10 for adults, HK$5 for seniors and children. Space Theatre performances: HK$32 for adults, HK$16 for seniors and children. Salisbury Road, phone 2734-2722.

AMUSEMENT OR THEME PARKS

Ocean Park. An amusement park where a cable car takes you to the best rides: the Dragon roller coaster, the Octopus and the Crazy Galleon. Or you may enjoy the Raging River, a lovely cruise on a sturdy boat. Ocean Park also contains the Shark Aquarium, the Japanese Garden for relaxing and the Ocean Theatre, where killer whales, seals and dolphins act out high-quality drama. Daily 10 am-6 pm. HK$140 adults (includes admission for one child under age 12). Older children pay adult price. (This park connects to Middle Kingdom. Entrance to Ocean Park is free when you buy a Middle Kingdom ticket.) On the south side of Hong Kong Island, near Aberdeen. Ocean Park Road, phone 2873-8888.

Middle Kingdom offers replicas of temples, pagodas and street scenes, as well as exhibits and demonstration stalls. Get your name written in Chinese characters and see the Lion Dance in front of you! (Middle Kingdom connects to Ocean Park. Entrance to Middle Kingdom is free when you buy an Ocean Park ticket.) Daily 10 am-6 pm. Phone 2555-3554.

Water World contains water slides (you plunge down at 28 mph/45 kph), a wave pool, the Lazy River and a children�s area for those under age 6. This park is not connected to Middle Kingdom and Ocean Park, but the entrances are next to each other. Open June-October daily 10 am-6 pm. Daytime admission: HK$65 adults, HK$33 children. Nighttime admission: HK$44 adults, HK$20 children. Ocean Park Road, Aberdeen, phone 2555-6055.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

The Peak and The Peak Tram. The ultimate Hong Kong experience: A ride on one of the world�s steepest cable cars up to Victoria Peak (also known as The Peak), atop which you will have a 360-degree view of Hong Kong Island. It seems, from below, to be a perilous�if not impossible�journey straight up the side of a mountain, but the tram, which recently celebrated its centenary, has an accident-free record.

Some say it�s best to go in the daytime and others say the night view is more spectacular. We suggest going up in late afternoon, taking a 40-minute stroll around Lugard Road, watching the sunset and then looking down upon the lights of the city. (Check the weather before you set out. If you can see the top of the mountain before you board the tram, you�ll probably have a good view. If it�s shrouded in mist, delay your trip until clearer weather.)

The Peak Tram starts from St. John�s Building, Garden Road, Central. (You can take a free open-topped bus from the Star Ferry terminal in Central to the Peak Tram terminal in the Mid-Levels on the Peak.) Costs: HK$18 one way and HK$28 round trip for adults, HK$5 one way and HK$8 round trip for children. It leaves approximately every 10 minutes. Take a seat on the right-hand side. The tram makes several stops along the way.

The Peak Tower, which offers the best view, has ice-cream shops, a few restaurants (fast food to fine cuisine) and souvenir shops. The walk around the Peak is one of Hong Kong�s best. Walk up Mt. Austin Road (opposite the exit of the Peak Tower Building) for about 10 minutes, passing a children�s playground on the left and some apartment buildings on the right. The view there is quite good, but if you�re feeling energetic, keep going up Mt. Austin Road to the top (about a half-hour�s walk uphill) to the site of the former Government House (now a pavilion). A gentler option starts at the Peak Tram Building: Turn right along Lugard Road for a stroll around the Peak, offering different views at each stage. It takes about 40 minutes, and there is no climbing. Don�t miss the beautiful view from the road just past the Peak Cafe. Looking south you�ll see Cheung Chau, Lantau and many of Hong Kong�s other islands. This view is at its most stunning at sunset when the small lights twinkle from the islands and the sun sets beyond the horizon.

The Star Ferry. This is a must! The ferry is a rare mix of the romantic and the practical. It takes you between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, and you may end up taking it every day of your visit. En route, you�ll see the activity of the harbor close up, and the journey always seems to pass too quickly. First-class, upper-deck tickets cost HK$2.20 (second-class views are not as good). The Star Ferry Terminals are located in Tsim Sha Tsui (Kowloon) and Central (Hong Kong side), phone 2366-2576.

SELF-GUIDED WALKING TOURS

The tourist association publishes several pamphlets giving information about routes, and it�s quite possible to see all the famous landmarks without a guided tour. With the use of a map, you can easily see�at your own pace�Central District, Statue Square, Hong Kong Park, St. John�s Cathedral, Lan Kwai Fong and �the Lanes� (narrow passageways connecting streets near the Central District). Wanchai has many shops, street stalls and�best of all�factory outlets selling designer clothes at nondesigner prices. Causeway Bay is also a fascinating strolling-and-shopping site. Both areas are easy to reach via tram, taxi or MTR train. A walk around The Peak rewards you with fantastic views.

LOCAL TOURS

Gray Line Tours runs tours to China as well as many local tours. Leave your passport with the company, and they�ll arrange for the visa into China. Local tour of Hong Kong highlights (approximately three hours) costs HK$290 for adults, HK$190 for children. 72 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, phone 2368-7111.

The Hong Kong Tourist Association also runs a number of tours: Lantau Tour, Family Insight Tour, Heritage Tours, Come Horse Racing Tour, among many others. Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2807-6543; and Shop 8, Basement, Connaught Centre, 1 Connaught Place, Central, phone 2807-6543.

Shopping

Hong Kong has a reputation as one of the world�s greatest shopping cities. Even though it now has serious competition from all over East Asia, it�s still an amazing urban bazaar. For the proper perspective, however, think of it more as a shopper�s jungle than a shopper�s paradise. There�s some danger along the way, but there�s also the chance that you�ll find something you�d be proud to �bag.� Shops are open 10 am-10 pm almost everywhere, so dedicated shoppers can happily exhaust themselves, which is particularly easy when the weather is hot and humid.

The first principle to keep in mind is that, while there are bargains to be had, not every purchase will be a fantastic deal.

Prices vary greatly from store to store, so shop around. Cash will usually get you a better price than credit cards. Bargaining can be done in all stores except larger department stores. To give you some idea of costs, the Hong Kong Tourist Association (HKTA) publishes recommended retail prices for a wide variety of goods in a number of free pamphlets. Stores displaying the HKTA sticker are generally considered to subscribe to higher ethics and be of greater reliability than those that don�t. If you expect a store to ship your goods for you, make sure it�s an HKTA member; otherwise the goods may never arrive.

A word or two about custom tailoring in Hong Kong: Much is made of the fact that a custom suit can be turned out in 24 hours. It can be, indeed, and it�ll look like it. If you want clothing custom-made, give the tailor as much time as you can, go back for several fittings and allow time for alterations. And make sure, when comparing prices, that you�re comparing comparable grades of fabric.

ANTIQUES

Hollywood Road is lined with shops selling antiques of all kinds�furniture, carpets, books, carvings and much more. On the uphill side of Central, a 10-minute walk from the Star Ferry.

J. K. Pedder, in the Pedder building, is a bit of an antique itself. On the second floor you�ll find a glorious collection of mostly Western antiques. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm. Room 201, 6 Pedder St., Central, phone 2523-2396.

BEST DEPARTMENT STORES

The Chinese Merchandise Emporium. Traditional Chinese crafts, foods, medicine and great souvenirs. Two locations: Chiao Shang Building, 92-104 Queen�s Rd., Central, phone 2524-1051 (Friday-Wednesday 9:30 am-7:30 pm). Or Tower 1, Argyle Centre, 65 Argyle St., Mongkok, phone 2395-3191 (Friday-Wednesday 10 am-9:30 pm).

Uny (HK) Co. Japanese department store selling hardware, stationery, clothes, jewelry and food (in that section, be sure to try the samples). Monday-Friday 10 am-10 pm. Cityplaza II, 18 Taikoo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay, phone 2885-0331.

Sogo. Massive, Ginza-style department store in Causeway Bay selling electronics, furniture, clothing and cosmetics. In the basement, find meals and snacks well priced. Daily 10 am-10 pm. 555 Hennessy Rd. (Causeway Bay MTR), phone 2833-8338.

Lane Crawford. An upscale store with furniture, clothes and jewelry all heavy with designer names. Daily 10 am-7:30 pm. Three locations: Lane Crawford House, Queen�s Road, Central, phone 2526-6121; Times Square, Great Russell Street, Causeway Bay, phone 2118-3638; and the Mall, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Central, phone 2845-1838.

Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium (main branch). Wide range of Chinese souvenirs such as silk clothing, embroidered cushion covers, toys and ceramics, as well as typical department store items. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Yau Ma Tei, 301 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, phone 2384-0084.

BOOKSTORES

The following are among those selling English-language books:

South China Morning Post Family Bookshop. Children�s books, guidebooks, best-selling fiction, tourist maps and greeting cards. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Star Ferry Concourse, Central, phone 2522-1012. Also Times Square outlet (Causeway Bay MTR stop), open weekdays 9 am-9:30 pm, weekends 9 am-10 pm, phone 2506-2838.

Bookazine. Fiction, nonfiction, travel guides, children�s books, stationery, posters, gifts and magazines. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Main locations: Basement, Connaught Centre, Connaught Place, Central, phone 2523-1747; Prince�s Building, Central, phone 2522-1785; and ground floor of Alexandra House, Chater Road, Central, phone 2524-9914.

Swindon Book Co. These are perhaps the most comprehensive bookshops in Hong Kong. 13 Lock Rd., Kowloon, phone 2366-8001, open Monday-Saturday 9 am-6:30 pm, Sunday 1-5:30 pm. Branch at Star Ferry Terminal open Monday-Sunday 8 am-9 pm, Sunday 10 am-7:30 pm. Most other Swindon branches operate Monday-Saturday 9 am-6:30 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm.

A crop of used bookstores sell English-language books:

Books and So Forth, 1st Floor, Lockhart Road, Wanchai, phone 2866-4053 (daily 11 am-9 pm); Collectables, 1st Floor, Winning House, 26 Hollywood Rd., Central, phone 2559-9562 (daily 11:30 am-8:30 pm); Flow, 1st Floor, 40 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, phone 8104-0822 (daily noon-9 pm).

MARKETS

While Hong Kong�s image as a shopping mecca is rather overrated, the markets continue to offer good value on many practical and souvenir items. Most stallholders will bargain, but don�t expect great reductions in price. Smile, and if you purchase more than one item, ask about a discount: It just might work!

Lai Yuen Street East and West. Stalls selling children�s clothing, shoes, leather goods and textiles as well as other, more unusual things. Opens at around 10 am, closes around 7 pm. Central.

Temple Street Market is Hong Kong�s most popular market, even though it�s open only at night. Clothes, sunglasses, suitcases, bags, watches, clocks, jewelry and phones and lots more, all at reasonable prices, together with food. Nightly 8-10:30 pm. Temple and Shanghai Streets, Kowloon.

Stanley Market. A good market, though highly overrated. If you�re looking for Nikes, Reeboks, all manner of denim and washable silk clothing, jewelry, watches, bad paintings, bathing suits and tablecloths at competitive prices, this is the place. The ride to get to it is terrific: Double-decker buses hug steep hillsides, and there are spectacular sea views. Take Citybus 6 or 6A, leaving from Exchange Square (near the Star Ferry), or wave it down at stops in front of City Hall and Queensway. The bus takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on traffic, and stops directly at the market. Daily 10 am-7 pm.

Spring Garden Lane. Wanchai has lots of small street markets, but this is one of the best. Jewelry, clothes, furniture and other goods. Among the butcher shops, you�ll find some great shoe stores. Daily 10 am-6 pm. Wanchai is easy to get to by tram, MTR or taxi.

ELECTRONICS AND CAMERAS

Shop for these items in Mong Kok (north of Tsim Sha Tsui), where so many shops exist that prices are competitive. Bargaining is the norm. In buying electronics, know exactly what you want (model and make) before you leave home and take note of what it costs at home when it�s on sale. Once in Hong Kong, don�t buy unless the item is far enough below the sale price to justify shipping or carrying it back�and possibly paying import duty.

Before handing over any money, make sure that everything works and that all pieces are included. If the item�s a brand-name product, make sure that the manufacturer�s warranty cards are all there and that serial numbers on the box match those on the product. Hong Kong merchants are not obligated by law to return or exchange items once purchased; after you�ve bought something, you may be able to talk a merchant into an exchange, but you�ll never see your money again.

When buying TV sets, video recorders or videotapes for use in North America, make sure they�re NTSC color systems. Likewise, they should be of the PAL system if you�re going to be using them elsewhere. (The merchant will know what you�re talking about.)

TRENDY SHOPPING AREAS

Pacific Place is the site of a four-screen cinema, Lane Crawford, Marks & Spencer, Seibu and lots more. One of the main shopping centers in Hong Kong and a great people-watching locale on weekends. 88 Queensway, Central.

Ocean Terminal and Ocean Centre have the widest variety of shops in Hong Kong. Marks & Spencer, Toys �R� Us and many more. Right by the Star Ferry.

UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL

Mountain Folkcraft sells unusual souvenirs�handmade masks, clothes from all over China, bags, cards, bamboo chopsticks and carvings. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6:30 pm. 12 Wo On Lane, off D�Aguilar Street, Central, phone 2525-3199.

The Mandarin Hotel Cake Shop (entrance on Chater Street) sells jars of rose-petal jam made in the hotel�s kitchen (small jar HK$105, larger size HK$120). The subtle, elegant flavor is highly recommended for crumpets or English muffins. Monday-Friday 8 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-5 pm. Phone 2825-4890.

Nightlife

Central, Wanchai and Tsim Sha Tsui are the main hot spots. Wanchai�s reputation for naughtiness is overblown these days: Among the tacky topless bars are some recently opened pubs and bars that are contributing to the area�s makeover.

LIVE MUSIC

The Jazz Club provides what its name suggests, in various formats. Call to find out what�s being featured on any particular night. Occasional cover charge, depending on performers. Open as a rule to 3 am. 2nd Floor, California Entertainment Bldg., 34-36 D�Aguilar St., Central, phone 2845-8477.

Hardy�s Folk Club. Hong Kong�s folk music following is small but extremely devoted. Depending upon who�s scheduled, the atmosphere can be rowdy or reverential. 35 D�Aguilar St., Central, phone 2526-7184.

The Fringe Club promotes avant-garde and experimental groups. Usually there�s no cover charge. Bar opens at noon, music begins at 11 pm and continues until around 1 am. Ice House Street, Central, phone 2521-7251 or 2523-6283.

Roy�s at New China Max. Live music (usually funk) and eclectic atmosphere pull in the crowds. Open till 2 am. 11th Floor, Food Forum, Times Square, Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, phone 2506-2282.

The Wanch. Usually bursting at the seams. Local bands most evenings, playing rock �n� roll, folk or heavy metal. No dancing�there�s no room! Happy hour (which is called �Crazy hour�) 7-10 pm. 54 Jaffe Rd., Wanchai, phone 2861-1621.

NIGHTCLUBS AND DANCING

There are many, many nightclubs in Hong Kong, but as with shopping, you need to exert a little caution. Be wary about the Wanchai and Kowloon �hostess� clubs: Outrageous minimum and cover charges are used to stiff customers for just one or two drinks. Some bars are multilevel, with different offerings on each floor (one complex may offer separate disco, karaoke and romantic settings, for example). Inquire about pricing policies before going in, and be prepared for some heavy marketing upon entering some of the more upscale locales (a waitress may, for example, try to interest you in a full bottle of expensive whiskey, or bring around other nonalcoholic luxury items). If you�re in search of some worry-free dance-floor action, here are suggestions:

JJ�s. Live music on one floor, a disco on another, billiards-and-darts room, pizza, snacks and the trendiest crowd in Hong Kong. Monday-Thursday after 8:30 pm cover charge is HK$100, which includes one drink. Friday and Saturday, cover charge is HK$200, which includes two drinks. Monday-Thursday 6:30 pm-2 am, Friday 6:30 pm-3 am, Saturday 7 pm-4 am. Most major credit cards. In the Grand Hyatt, 1 Harbour Rd., Wanchai, phone 2588-1234.

Joe Banana�s. This place throbs with a younger, yuppie crowd. A deejay spins discs and the bar whips up frothy cocktails. A restaurant serves burgers, soups and salads for lunch and dinner. Open daily 11 am-6 am. 23 Luard Rd., Wanchai, phone 2529-1811.

Club Shanghai. Dance to live blues or jazz music in a scene straight out of Shanghai in the decadent �30s. (Witness the opium pipes on each table.) Sunday-Thursday 6 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-3 am. Most major credit cards. In the Regent Hotel, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2721-1211.

TAVERNS AND PUBS

Bull and Bear trades in traditional British pub grub and British, local and imported beers. Monday-Saturday 8 am-midnight, Sunday noon-midnight. Happy hour 5-9 pm. Ground Floor, Hutchison House (next to the Furama Hotel), Central, phone 2525-7436.

Mad Dogs is a traditional English pub located in a basement. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-2 am, Friday and Saturday 11 am-3 am. Century Square, 1 D�Aguilar St., Central, phone 2810-1000.

Delaney�s. Tip back a Guinness or one of the new microbrewery ales made in Hong Kong. Live music every Wednesday and Sunday in Wanchai, every Tuesday and Saturday in Kowloon. Open Sunday-Thursday noon-2 am, Friday and Saturday noon-3 am or later. No cover. In Wanchai on the 2nd Floor, One Capital Place, 18 Luard Rd., phone 2804-2880, and in Kowloon at Multifield Plaza, 3-7A Prat Ave., Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2301-3980.

Carnegie�s. Friendly atmosphere, live music some Saturdays, deejay otherwise. No cover. Friday and Saturday 11 am-5 am, Sunday 5 pm-2 am, Monday-Thursday 11 am-2 am. 53-55 Lockhart Rd., Wanchai, phone 2866-6289.

Recreation

GOLF

Determined visitors can play 18 holes at the Royal Hong Kong Golf Club in the New Territories on weekday mornings only, 7:30 am-11:30 am, on a first-come, first-served basis. Hong Kong ID cardholders pay HK$1,200; overseas visitors will be charged HK$1,400. Fanling, New Territories, phone 2670-1211.

The Deep Water Bay Golf Club course is open only to people booked on the HKTA Sports & Recreation Tour. The weekday tour costs HK$400 and must be booked in advance. Call the HKTA (Hong Kong Tourist Association), phone 2807-6543.

The Discovery Bay Golf Club on Lantau offers day golfing (tee times 7:30 am-9:29 pm and 11:50 am-1:42 pm) on Monday, Tuesday and Friday for HK$1,400. Night golf is available Wednesday and Friday, with tee-off times 4-7:30 pm. Cost is HK$2,100 for 18 holes. Day-golf bookings accepted two days in advance; night-golf bookings accepted the same day only. Take the hoverferry to Discovery Bay from Central (it�s just beside the Star Ferry entrance). The 25-minute trip costs HK$25 one way. A bus connects the ferry terminal with the golf club, which is above the town of Discovery Bay. There�s only one road. Phone 2987-7273.

HEALTH CLUBS

Nearly all hotels have health club facilities, but Hong Kong has witnessed something of a gym revolution in the last year�a number of fitness centers have opened. One of the biggest and most popular is the California Fitness Centre. For HK$300, visitors can use the facilities for a day. Fitness machines, aerobics classes, towels and shampoo. Monday-Saturday 6 am-midnight, Sunday 8 am-10 pm. Three locations, but the main one is 1 Wellington St., Central, phone 2522-6697. The other two are in Wanchai and Causeway Bay.

The Gym offers visitors the use of weights, fitness machines and aerobics classes for HK$300. 18th Floor, Melbourne Plaza, 33 Queen�s Rd., Central, phone 2877-8337.

HIKING TRAILS

The most famous hiking trail in Hong Kong is the Maclehose Trail, named after a former British governor of Hong Kong, Lord Maclehose, who loved hill walking. It�s indeed a hilly trail that stretches 60 mi/100 km across the New Territories. It�s broken into sections, each with a posted level of difficulty, so you are able to jump in and out at various points. (There�s a lot of up-and-down.) Hiking on hot summer days with high humidity presents a very real risk of dehydration, so take an adequate amount of water! The Hong Kong Tourist Association offers a detailed leaflet on the Maclehose Trail. Call 2807-6543.

JOGGING

A wonderful jogging route is along Bowen Road. From Central it�s a short taxi ride (or run) up Cotton Tree Drive to Magazine Gap Road�traversing the expensive residential district in the elevated part of Hong Kong Island. Bowen Road starts near there and goes 2.5 mi/4 km on level ground to Stubbs Road.

WALKING

Within the urban areas, there are very few parks, all of which are very crowded. However, there are quite a few large country parks�they account for 40% of Hong Kong�s land. To get to them you have to travel to the south side of Hong Kong Island (14 parks), to the New Territories (12 parks) or Lantau Island (two parks). Maps of the countryside are available from the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

SWIMMING

Most hotels have swimming pools for the use of their guests. Public swimming pools include the following:

Victoria Park Swimming Pool. A public pool run by the Urban Council. Daily 7 am-9 pm. HK$19 adults, HK$9 children. Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island, phone 2570-4682.

Kowloon Park Swimming Pool. Indoor and outdoor pools (outdoor pool closed November-April). Open daily 6:30 am-9 pm. HK$19 adults, HK$9 children. Kowloon Park, Tsim Sha Tsui, phone 2724-3577.

SPECTATOR SPORTS

Hong Kong hosts many international sporting events during the course of the year�golf, soccer, rugby and tennis. Hong Kong Now! (free and published weekly by the Hong Kong Tourist Association) is an excellent source of information about current competitions.

For additional information about sports, consult the South China Morning Post and Hong Kong Standard.

Here are options for horse-racing fans:

Racing at Happy Valley. 2 Sports Rd., Happy Valley, Hong Kong Island. The Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club, phone 2837-8111.

Shatin Race Course is at Shatin, in the New Territories, and can be reached easily by Kowloon Canton Railway, stopping at Racecourse Station. Phone 2695-6223.

The Come Horse Racing Tour is held at whichever course (Happy Valley or Shatin) is holding the races�the racecourses are used alternately. Racing season is September-June. The Hong Kong Tourist Association runs a Come Horse Racing Tour on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday evenings, also Saturday or Sunday afternoons. HK$530 includes lunch or dinner. Hong Kong Tourist Association hotline: 2807-6177.

Day Trips

To China. Many tours are available�to Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province in China, for example, or to Shenzhen, the new city (called �town� by locals) just over the border. Most hotels have travel desks where tours may be booked and visa forms filled out. Morningstar Travel (phone 2723-2268) offers day trips to both the locations cited above. To Guangzhou by hovercraft, with same-day return by train, costs HK$1,200, including visa. A tour of Shenzhen costs HK$630, including visa. Gray Line Tours also organizes day tours to Shenzhen (HK$650) and to Shenzhen and Guangzhou (HK$1,130), both including visa. Phone 2368-7111.

To Macau. This Portuguese colony is an hour away by jetfoil. China Travel Service offers a day tour to Macau for HK$700, including hotel transfers, lunch and Turbo-cat tickets. China Travel Service, 78 Connaught Rd., Central, phone 2853-3888.

Note: It should be emphasized that both China and Macau may be visited without official tour guides. Most travel agencies offer China visa service. (Visas for China are still required.) They�ll need your passport and one photo. Obtaining a visa in three working days costs around HK$160 (rates vary among agencies); in two working days HK$210; and in one day HK$260. Contact Phoenix Travel Services, phone 2722-7378, or China Travel Service, phone 2853-3888, for details.

Most visitors (including those from Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, New Zealand, Scandinavia, the U.K. and the U.S.) do not need a visa to visit Macau. Contact the Macau Tourist Information Bureau in Hong Kong for information about jetfoils and hotels: 3rd Floor, Shun Tak Centre, 200 Connaught Rd., phone 2657-2287. Closed Wednesday and Saturday.

Hong Kong Calendar

INTRODUCTION

IN HONG KONG, Western music, dance and art coexist easily with Cantonese opera and time-honored festivals, especially the Chinese Lunar New Year. Lunar cycles determine the dates of many of them. A series of special events�the Hong Kong Fashion Week fashion show, the Hong Kong International Arts Festival and such sporting events as Sevens Rugby, International Horse Races and World Wushu Championships (martial arts)�add excitement to the Hong Kong calendar.

If you call numbers listed in this calendar from outside Hong Kong, you must first dial your country�s international access code, then Hong Kong�s code, 852.

The Hong Kong Tourist Association can be reached in Hong Kong at 9/11 F, Citicorp Centre, 18 Whitfield Rd., North Point, phone 2807-6543, fax 2807-6543 or fax 2503-6232. For a multilingual hotline in Hong Kong, phone 2807-6177. Or call the Hong Kong Tourist Association at the following numbers: in London, phone 171-930-4775; in Los Angeles, phone 310-208-4582; in New York City, phone 212-421-3382; in Sydney, phone 9283-3083; and in Toronto, phone 416-366-2389.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

OCTOBER 1999

1 Oct�National Day. Public holiday.

1-31 Oct�Art Exhibit. �Warring States Treasures: Cultural Relics From the Zhongshan Kingdom, Hebei Province.� Through 9 Jan 2000. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

6 Oct�Birthday of Confucius. Religious holiday.

16-18 Oct�Chung Yeung (Men�s) Festival. Sometimes referred to as the �double 9� festival (the ninth day of the ninth month of the lunar calendar), this ancient festival celebrates the attribute of strong maleness. Families usually take picnics and hikes in the hills, where climbing contests are held.

22-31 Oct�Music Festival. Chinese Arts Festival. Through 13 Nov. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

24 Oct�Mid Autumn (Moon) Festival. The harvest festival commemorates the spirit of 14th-century rebels who spread the call of revolt by hiding secret messages in cakes. Today, delicious moon cakes made of ground lotus and sesame seeds are eaten and families visit parks and hilltops around the city to watch the moon come up.

27-31 Oct�Boat Races. Hong Kong Formula One Powerboat Grand Prix. Free, with room for more than 100,000 spectators, at Tai Po Waterfront, New Territories.

Throughout October�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June 2000 at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

NOVEMBER 1999

1-13 Nov�Music Festival. Chinese Arts Festival. Through 13 Nov. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

1-14 Nov�Art Exhibit. �Ancient Chinese Black Wares.� West-Wing Galleries, Art Museum, The Chinese University, Sha Tin, New Territories. For information, phone 2609-7416.

3-7 Nov�Martial Arts Championships. More than 700 athletes, both men and women, from about 70 countries compete in the 5th World Wushu Championships. For more information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6177.

25-28 Nov�Hong Kong Open Golf Championships. The scenic location of the Hong Kong Golf Club in Fanling draws many of golf�s top players to this international event. For information, call the course in Fanling, phone 2670-1211.

28 Nov�Millennium Tea Party. Harborfront tea party at Tamar site (former British navy base). The first of a series of events planned for the millennium. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout November�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May 2000. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout November�Arts Festival. Art Asia Hong Kong celebrates the city�s contemporary artists and their work. For more information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout November�Art Exhibit. �Warring States Treasures: Cultural Relics From the Zhongshan Kingdom, Hebei Province.� Through 9 Jan 2000. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout November�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout November�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout November�Chinese Opera. Performances are held throughout the year. Check these sites: The Sunbeam Theatre, 423 King�s Rd., North Point, phone 2856-0154, and Ko Shan Theatre, Ko Shan Park, Hung Hom, Kowloon, phone 2330-4742.

Throughout November�Film Festival. World Film Classics. Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai. For information, phone 2582-0219.

Throughout November�Science Exhibit. Exhibition on space science and astronomy. At Space Museum Exhibition Hall, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon. For information, phone 2734-2722.

Throughout November�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June 2000 at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

DECEMBER 1999

8, 12 Dec�International Races. Both Happy Valley (evening of 8 Dec) and Sha Tin (day of 12 Dec) Race Tracks will host Hong Kong�s world horse racing event of the year. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association at 2807-6543.

11-31 Dec�34th Hong Kong Products Expo. Organized by the Chinese Manufacturers Association of Hong Kong, this trade show of over 600 exhibitors will feature leather goods, jewelry and furniture. Through 2 Jan 2000. At the Tamar Site. For information, call the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, phone 2584-4333.

20-28 Dec�Opera Festival. International Cantonese Opera Festival. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

22 Dec�Winter Solstice.

25, 26 Dec�Christmas Holidays. Public holidays.

31 Dec�New Year�s Eve. Temple and church bells toll and revellers gather in Causeway Bay�s Times Square for the annual countdown. Family Fun Carnival rings in the new year with fireworks and other festivities. Victoria Park, Hing Fat Street, Causeway Bay, phone 2591-1383.

31 Dec�Millennium Horse Racing. Seven races for a millennium extravaganza at Happy Valley Race Track with a millennium cup race organized by the Hong Kong Jockey Club, held shortly after midnight. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout December�Christmas Carnival. Events are held throughout the city to celebrate the holiday season. For specific information, contact the Provisional Urban Council, phone 2591-1383.

Throughout December�Santa�s Garden. A holiday display for children and adults alike. Pacific Place, phone 2844-3888.

Throughout December�Art Exhibit. �Warring States Treasures: Cultural Relics From the Zhongshan Kingdom, Hebei Province.� Through 9 Jan 2000. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout December�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May 2000. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout December�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout December�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout December�Chinese Opera. Performances are held throughout the year. Check these sites: The Sunbeam Theatre, 423 King�s Rd., North Point, phone 2856-0154, and Ko Shan Theatre, Ko Shan Park, Hung Hom, Kowloon, phone 2330-4742.

Throughout December�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June 2000 at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

JANUARY 2000

1 Jan�New Year�s Day. Public holiday. New Year�s Eve revellers gather for late-morning champagne brunches.

1, 2 Jan�34th Hong Kong Products Expo. Organized by the Chinese Manufacturers Association of Hong Kong, this trade show of over 600 exhibitors will feature leather goods, jewelry and furniture. At the Tamar Site. For information, call the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, phone 2584-4333.

1-9 Jan�Art Exhibit. �Warring States Treasures: Cultural Relics From the Zhongshan Kingdom, Hebei Province.� For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

8-31 Jan�Fringe Festival. The alternative arts are featured, with offbeat theater, mime, dance, music and art in the spotlight, as well as such entertainments as fire-eating and juggling. For more information, call the Fringe Club, phone 2521-7251.

15-31 Jan�Hong Kong Arts Festival. The first two weeks of the annual festival that features international performers. Cultural events include modern dance, Western opera and much more. Continues through 13 Feb. For more information, phone 2824-3555, phone 2807-6543, or phone 2807-6177.

17-20 Jan�Fashion Trade Show. Hong Kong Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2000. For information, call the Trade Development Council, phone 2584-4333, or access http:www.tdc.org.hk on the Web.

Mid January dates to be determined�International Lion Dance Tournament. Chinese teams from throughout Southeast Asia compete. Hong Kong Coliseum, 6 Cheung Wan Rd., Hunghom, Kowloon. For exact dates and further information, call the Coliseum, phone 2504-8164.

25 Jan�Cirque du Soleil. The internationally renowned circus will be in residence at Tamar performing their Saltimbanco production. Through 2 Apr. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association at 2807-6543.

Throughout January�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout January�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music as well as Chinese opera take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout January�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout January�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

FEBRUARY 2000

4 Feb�Lunar New Year�s Eve. On this day preceding China�s biggest festival, Hong Kong residents flock to flower markets to buy the freshest blooms possible.

5-7 Feb�Lunar New Year of the Dragon. Gala public holidays celebrating the arrival of the Year of the Dragon (whose sign signifies leadership qualities for those born under it). Decorated storefronts and streets, festive street performances and a parade with floats along the Wan Chai waterfront. Food, handicrafts and games for sale at Tamar Site. Shops and offices closed, restaurants open. The annual New Year Parade (held 5 Feb) winds through the streets of Hong Kong Island with colorful dragon dancers, decorated floats, marching bands, street entertainers, music and dancing along Wan Chai harborfront. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association at 2807-6543.

8 Feb�Lunar New Year Races. Special event horse racing at Sha Tin racecourse.

19-29 Feb�28th Hong Kong Arts Festival. The annual festival features international performers. Cultural events include modern dance, Western opera and much more. Continues through 12 Mar. Phone 2824-3555 for more information.

29 Feb�Table Tennis. 2000 Olympics Table Tennis Asian Qualifying Tournament, Queen Elizabeth Stadium, 18 Oi Kwan Rd., Wanchai. For information, call the Hong Kong Table Tennis Association, phone 2575-5330.

Throughout February�Cirque du Soleil. The internationally renowned circus will be in residence at the Tamar site performing their Saltimbanco production. Through 2 Apr. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout February�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music as well as Chinese opera take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout February�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout February�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout February�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

MARCH 2000

1-4 Mar�Table Tennis. 2000 Olympics Table Tennis Asian Qualifying Tournament, Queen Elizabeth Stadium, 18 Oi Kwan Rd., Wanchai. For information, call the Hong Kong Table Tennis Association, phone 2575-5330.

1-12 Mar�28th Hong Kong Arts Festival. The annual festival features international performers. Cultural events include modern dance, Western opera and much more. Phone 2824-3555 for more information.

2 Mar�Spring Lantern Festival. Colorful lanterns adorn temples and parks, such as Ko Shan Road Park in Kowloon. This festival marks the end of the new year celebrations and is sometimes called the Chinese Valentine�s Day, because lantern markets used to be a rendezvous spot for young couples.

24-26 Mar�Rugby. The 2000 Credit Suisse First Boston Hong Kong Sevens rugby tournament, with top international teams competing for Cup, Plate and Bowl titles. Hong Kong Stadium. For information, call the Hong Kong Rugby Football Union, phone 2504-8311, http://www.hkfu.com or http://www.hksevens.com.hk.

Throughout March�Cirque du Soleil. The internationally renowned circus will be in residence at the Tamar site performing their Saltimbanco production. Through 2 Apr. For information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout March�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music as well as Chinese opera take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout March�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout March�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout March�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

March date to be determined�Marathon. 20th Coast of China Marathon. Overseas entrants welcome. Sai Kung. For more information, phone 2594-5041.

APRIL 2000

1, 2 Apr�Cirque du Soleil. The internationally renowned circus will be in residence at Tamar performing their Saltimbanco production. For information, phone the Hong Kong Tourist Association at 2807-6543.

21, 22, 24 Apr�Easter Weekend. Public holidays.

April dates to be determined�Film Festival. This international film festival brings together hundreds of movies, including foreign films, films by independent filmmakers and the best Asian movies. At many venues throughout the district. For information, phone 2734-2899.

4 Apr�Ching Ming (Tomb Sweep) Festival. On this day devoted to remembering one�s ancestors, Chinese sweep their graves and repaint inscriptions on their headstones. Expect delays on public transportation and also on roads and highways that access cemeteries.

April dates to be determined�Swimming. Annual world FINA championships. Hong Kong Coliseum and Kowloon Swimming Complex. For more information, phone 2572-8594.

Late April dates to be determined�Auctions. At Sotheby�s and Christie�s spring auctions, buyers from around the world bid on Chinese antiques, porcelain, jade, jewelry and paintings. Continue through early May. For information, phone 2521-5396.

Throughout April�Exhibit. �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware, continuing until 14 May. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

Throughout April�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music as well as Chinese opera take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout April�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout April�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

MAY 2000

1-14 May�Exhibit. Last days to view �Tea Ware From the K. S. Lo Collection.� Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware. Free. Hong Kong Park, Cotton Tree Drive, Central. For information, phone 2869-0690.

22 May�Birthday of Lord Buddha. Worshippers bathe Buddha�s statue as a sign of devotion. The biggest observance takes place at the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island.

Early May dates to be determined�Auctions. At Sotheby�s and Christie�s spring auctions, buyers from around the world bid on Chinese antiques, porcelain, jade, jewelry and paintings. For information, phone 2521-5396.

May dates to be determined�Cheung Chau (Bun) Festival. On Cheung Chou Island, expect to see towers covered with seet buns that have been blessed, as well as children parading in colorful costumes.

Throughout May�Concerts. Performances of Western symphonic and choral music as well as Chinese opera take place virtually every night. Check these sites: Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2009; Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wanchai; and Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout May�Art Exhibits. Changing exhibits are on view at the Hong Kong Museum of Art, 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, phone 2734-2167, and at Hong Kong City Hall, Low Block, Edinburgh Place, Central, phone 2921-2840.

Throughout May�Horse Racing. The season continues until mid June at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses. Races take place on Wednesdays and weekends.

JUNE 2000

18 Jun�Tuen Ng (Dragon Boat) Festival. One of Hong Kong�s most spectacular festivals, it combines tradition with a fast-paced international sporting event. Local and international teams compete in races to the sound of drums. The narrow boats sport colorful dragon�s heads and tails. For more information, call the Hong Kong Tourist Association, phone 2807-6543.

Throughout June�Chinese Opera. Performances are held throughout the year. Check these sites: The Sunbeam Theatre, 423 King�s Rd., North Point, phone 2856-0154, and Ko Shan Theatre, Ko Shan Park, Hung Hom, Kowloon, phone 2330-4742.

Concluding in June�Horse Racing. Final races of the season at Happy Valley and Sha Tin racecourses take place on Wednesdays and weekends. For more information, call 2966-8111.